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Thursday, June 4, 2015

Late 1830's Dress

I like the look of this dress. The skirt is quite full, as well as the sleeves.
Front view. I love the sleeves :)

Side view. I didn't take a picture of the back because I couldn't get the dress closed over my dress form. It fastens up the back with a multitude of hooks and eyes.

This is a detail of the cartridge pleating, also known as gauging, used to gather the large amount of fabric in the skirt to the waistband.

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Late 1830's Underpinnings

I made this beautiful corded stays/corset to wear under my 1837 day Dress, but it honestly doesn't work the way I hoped it would. Because there isn't any boning (except for one bone on either side of the back opening and the busk in front) the petticoats and skirt cut into my waist…not comfortable. To top things off, I modified the bust darts (thinking they would be too large) to the point that they gave me a strange shape. You can see that I tried to remedy that by adding additional fabric to the bust gussets. Honestly, I am frustrated with these stays to no end. I like them (and spent quite a lot of time cording them) but I just can't wear them in the way I had imagined. 
Front view

Side view, and a closeup of the cording

Back view. It's also a pain to get into because the lacing is in the back and there is no separating busk

Here is my corded petticoat. It works just as well as I hoped it would, thankfully. I made it out of some wide muslin I had leftover from some other project. The cording is some very thick hemp twine.

Here is the corded petticoat with my two other petticoats over the top. I made these petticoats for my civil war dress originally, but with one modification to make them one length all around, they work just as well for an earlier period. They are made out of some old sheets… the top one is cream colored while the one underneath is made from some red satin sheets. The red one probably isn't very accurate, but it does its job and that's all that matters.


Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Two Federalist Era Dresses

I've made two dresses from the Federalist Era, as it was known here in the United States. The pattern I used is Past Pattern's Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown. I modified the pattern for the second dress to make it an "apron front" closing gown.



Saturday, May 23, 2015

Federalist Era Underpinnings

I made a set of underpinnings to go with my two front closing gowns, which will be featured in my next post.
This chemise works well for most time periods. It's constructed with simple geometric shapes. The neckline is adjustable since there is a ribbon encased in the hem.

The underarm gusset

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Edwardian Ensemble is Finished!

Yay! I finally finished my Edwardian ensemble! I finished the skirt this afternoon and just had to put everything on and try it out. I like the overall look very much. Just some fair warning, I was taking the pictures that are to follow using my laptop, so they aren't great, but will give you the general idea.

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Edwardian Skirt

I finally received the fabric I ordered to make my 1905 circular skirt. It's such a pretty shade of purple! I decided to bite the bullet and go with a color other than black, brown or gray. It's a mid weight, subtly striped twill described on the website I ordered from as "Mulberry". I do think it could be mulberry-colored, but it reminds me more of a slightly underripe blueberry! It's a rich, beautiful shade of purple no matter what it's named.
See? Isn't it such a pretty color? It's a bit darker in real life

Sunday, May 10, 2015

Button-front Shirt Refashion #3

This refashion uses three shirts, technically. I made a dress with the upper portion of a white shirt, the lower portion of a red silk shirt, and a strip of fabric from the lower portion of a black shirt.
I took inspiration from pictures of color-block dresses, which are quite trendy right now, I suppose.