This chemise works well for most time periods. It's constructed with simple geometric shapes. The neckline is adjustable since there is a ribbon encased in the hem.
The underarm gusset
back view
This chemise is quite short, and the neckline is low enough that it won't show under the low neckline of the dress.
Underarm gusset
I made a simple strapped petticoat to provide some body to the skirt as well as coverage under the sheer white one. I can't close it on my form, but it fastens in the front with a hook and eye, as well as another hook and thread eye about halfway down the front slit.
These front closing transitional stays are probably my favorite. They end right about where my ribcage ends, but they don't cut in anywhere. Not to mention they give some great lift haha. I used Past Pattern's A Partially Boned Transition Stay to make these. I couldn't even remotely get these on my dress form simply because of the nature of what and how they squish… My dress form's breasts are static :p
A closeup of my hand stitching. I sewed the stays entirely by hand. They are boned with a mix of different boning materials ranging from spiral steel, zip ties to heavy clothesline cording. Not entirely accurate, but it works :P
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